Varadero

Varadero I have mentioned before that there are two rules in Cuba, one for locals and one for tourists. There are two prices also, the same as the above applies. It seems that there is this idea that making money is on a fast track when tourists are involved. It's a bit of a piss take. I don't blame people when they have come from a suppressed place and have now found a way to tap into a venue stream which wasn't previously available. There needs to be some sort of long term vision around this stuff as tourists will spread the word when they cotton on, and this can have a negative affect in a few ways, one being that there becomes a cautious behavioral pattern towards locals, where there once was trust and pity, is replaced by belligerence and anger. That will then replicate itself back towards the tourists, and so on. Varadero is the exact epitome of all the above. It's a destination designed for tourists. Big beachfront hotels, shops which actually are shops and have stock, and everything along the small strip that is Varadero, is shiny, polished and made to look...well, unlike the rest of Cuba which I have witnessed. There are rooftop bus tours, a golf course ( that's a clue right there), western hotel chains, and the longest whitest, most pristine beach I have yet seen. The water is crystal clear, warm, and yet somehow yesterday I managed to fish 6 empty cans of beer off the bottom of the sea bed, at knee high water level, why? Why when people have this beauty at their doorstep do they still manage to pollute, litter and disregard the fact that it's magnificent? It's basically Clifton, but at Strand. I have found the people a little bit off-ish too, but again, perhaps it's a product of the tourist exponent and previous experience. A slight, "who the fuck are you, this is our island, what do you want here, we were happy yesterday before you arrived!" attitude. Again, I understand it, but it doesn't always bode well long term, for either party. The service is also non-existent here, which makes it the same as the rest of Cuba, perhaps it's just with tourists, but surely if, as a waiter, you want to make tips, you exude some kind of enthusiasm, even as a facade, and you're hating every minute? There are always curio shops and small markets, all over Cuba, wherever there may be a tourist. Like most places around the world, 95% have an overlap of the same stuff which I saw in my first day in Havana. It's amazing how it's all the same, and an idea that it's your first day in Cuba and you haven't seen any of it yet. Anyway, in hope I still patrol these stalls and scan very fast, especially for unusual jewellery, which will somehow fit in with my style. I was through another general perusal of this "artisanal market" when a guy came up and asked me about my tattoos and whether I was interested in any more, as his "brother" had a shop quite close by and would I like to see it? I'm always game for exploration and have been seeking a tattooist since I arrived, as I mentioned previously in Havana. Tattoo parlours are no longer banned, but the government doesn't want them to be big shops with bright lights and that the owners hand out cards advertising it in the streets. For those who don't know, I like to get a tattoo in a visited country, if the specific experience gained warrants one. On this occasion, one certainly has and I have been playing with some ideas as I've travelled, specifically to do with the flag, something to do with freedom, struggle, journeying, etc...maybe even a tailwind tattoo? Moving on, I went to meet the brother and the artist who would be doing the work, and something just felt like it fitted, no forcing...I don't do forcing. Either it must flow or it must go. His work was pretty standard, cut and paste, but I liked the cleanliness and way his operation was set up. My whole arm has been done by one artist, so I have a special relationship with her with regards to the type of style and design I like and she has carte blanche, to a degree as to how it comes out as a finished product. They are artists after all and one needs to trust the process and their ability to create your vision, more or less. I chatted to the guy who was going to create the stencil for the tattoo and we came up with a design incorporating some of my ideas and the Cuban flag, which I love. My appointment was for 6pm, so had 3 hours to kill and in that time came up with other ideas and re-drew the design and presented it to him just before 6, which he duly changed and made happen. No matter how many times you get inked, it doesn't become less painful, I'm not sure that's fair. Anyway, another one added, and I'm sure it will appropriately pop up in my photos on my Facebook timeline when this is posted. Let me know if it's to your liking, especially Tania my Monkey #1. The day was spent on the beach, I'm starting to look like a washed up pip from a fruit that has been floating around in the sea for a millennium. You know those hard, dark brown, blackish pips, a little bit gnarled by too much water and sun time, that you wonder where they had been in their time on this earth? Yes, those! I tried to find a quiet spot away from a hotel, where I could just chill on my own and have a quiet day away from tourists, which was surprisingly easy to do. Penny was left under a tree, attached firmly by lock in the shade, poor girl, needs a rest. I have to say, give me a beach and some music, I am as happy as a pig in shit, and can remain all day. Same today I think, and every other day I'm here. I need to renew my tourist visa next Monday and there is an immigration office here and figured it would be less hectic than the one in Havana, so hence a dual purpose about being in Varadero, which wasn't initially a planned place to stop or visit, due to the tourist factor. The renewal process is a bit intricate as far as documentation goes, and the government didn't try and make the process easier at any point. One needs to go to a bank to get 25 Convertible Pesos worth of stamps, as they don't accept cash, which is completely contrary to everywhere else in Cuba, where card machines are non existent. Then a proof of travel insurance, where one is staying, your passport, old travel visa and plane ticket when you are leaving. FFS! I can only imagine there will be queues and a slow non interested government official, to make sure that your day is completely wasted altogether! All tourists get 30 days here and then can renew for a further 30 days, except Canadians, they get 90 days. I don't recall any connection between Canada and Cuba in history, other than they have the same alphabetical start letter. I have met and heard of Cubans moving freely to and from Canada, so perhaps there is a reciprocal free travel agreement. Does every country have that with China, because no matter where one goes, into the remotest part of the most foreign territory, one can always find a Chinese supermarket. They are almost as popular as an Irish bar on the Spanish Riviera. Aside from all this stuff about Varadero, I, personally, am in a good head space on all fronts. I am looking forward to my 'skattie', Eldi's imminent arrival, it's gonna be cool doing some of Cuba with company, after my solo vigil thus far. I'm sure we will have a laugh a minute, until she is told she has to ride 130km to the next overnight stop. Haha. Two other mates Richard and Russ are off soon on their own vigil, to the Antarctic circle on a small little boat with big seas and the company of 9 other people, 3 being crew. That will be a grand memory and an absolute adventure, but too cold for my blood. I wish you guys a safe journey, magical memories (no doubt), and well done for super-ceding most people's most extreme adventure, which is down to the supermarket at V&A at months end. I salute your bravery and ability to have the need to broaden your horizons and experience this great planet, out of the comfort of the big chair and high definition screens your lounge can offer you these days. Kudos brothers. Having a chat yesterday with Roberto, who owns half the tattoo shop, he asked me how I found the Cuban people and if I liked them? This was my reply and as long as I live I don't think it will change much.. " No matter where I have travelled in this world, far and wide, people are people. Some are good people who are kind, considerate and friendly, and some are not. I cannot say that it is specific to any country or race or color, it's just specific to the person concerned. What makes people different from each other is not necessarily the country or the roots thereof, but of their own journey in their lives, and the existential experience that has formed how they are, and the consciousness that they exude to others." Everybody dies, not everybody lives, even Kurt Darren and his "Los-Lappie" song. Just saying...apparently!!